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Sep 27, 2010

Peter's self-drafted corduroy pants: The Dramatic Conclusion



It took most of the day, but I got the pants finished.  Not hemmed yet, but otherwise completed.  (I'll throw them in the wash later and let them shrink up a bit before I hem them.)

Overall, I'm satisfied and I learned a lot.



There are a few things I wish I'd done differently, things I probably won't think about again after a few wearings. 

The front fly isn't perfectly vertical, but curves ever-so-slightly to the right.   Can you see that?



Despite using commercial waistband interfacing, the kind that has a little "skirt" that covers the inside waistband seam, making everything look smooth and professional, the inside facing is knit.   I should have used woven (like my RTW dress pants have, I realize in retrospect).  It's fine, just not ideal.  It doesn't stretch, but it's not as tight or as rigid as I'd like it.







And I attached the waistband the way I would a shirt cuff or a shirt collar band (or a denim jeans waistband), requiring me to topstitch along the outside bottom (on a shirt cuff, this would be the place where the outside cuff attaches to the shirt sleeve).  This looks OK, but topstitching on corduroy never looks gorgeous: it tends to flatten the nap.

Ideally I would have attached the outside of the waistband first, right sides together, and then folded the waistband up and over.  Then (I guess) I could have slipstitched the facing from the inside so no stitching would show on the outside.  Does that make sense?

It's all under a belt so it's invisible anyway.

I also should have attached the belt loops differently but who's examining my belt loops?





I didn't follow the pattern instructions for the waistband or the belt loops because I was working with that commercial interfacing.  As with all garments, a little judicious hand-stitching would have made things nicer.

Again, it's fine and after a few days I won't think about it again.



My self-drafted pants pattern could use some tweeking, ultimately; maybe a re-do.  But that's for later on.  The important thing is the pants are done.  I have to move on.

It's pouring rain here at the moment: perfect weather to start sewing a corduroy suit jacket, don't you think?

More pics of the pants here(I've been adding to the same file so you might have seen some of these already.  It's quite the epic.)

Happy Monday, everybody!

Any corduroy projects in the pipeline?

33 comments:

  1. Good job, Peter! Again, I love corduroy and I love the color. Your pants look great. The things I sew never look great on the inside, but who cares? No one can see it. :) You're gonna rock the event that must not be named! By the way, I love the candid shots of Michael and the dogs in the background.

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  2. Peter you are SO clever! These trousers are adoreable and the cut and fabric are amazing. I can't wait to see the jacket. Really, really great job!

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  3. Is Michael your date for the big reunion? You might wan to take someone more exciting, just for the night. He's going to look silly in shorts and a that striped tank you made him, playing with his iphone, while you're all spiffied up.

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  4. I don't think anyone will notice your 'flaws' Peter, 'cause you had to point them out for me to see them! The pants look great, and I can't wait to see the jacket.

    I need to finish my current pair of half-finished jammies, but then, I'm doing a wrap-around dress out of pinwale corduroy with a cotton broadcloth collar. The pattern is a bit cracktastic if you wear it the way they say you should. I'm using this fabric and closing it with pink heart buttons. Evie will be wearing it what the pattern deems as backwards. I think it's a cute pattern... as long as the back becomes the front!

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  5. Looking awesome! Good for you for remembering you won't even notice the flaws in a few weeks :)

    I passed up some gorgeous teal/blue corduroy at the thrift store last spring (ok, it was a curtain, moving on) and I've been regretting it ever since. /sigh.

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  6. Great job on the pants Peter. I love the cranberry color. I wish I was home sewing as well.

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  7. They are looking awesome! Unfortunately I fear this cold-weather will only stay through the week here in RI so I won't be finishing my corduroy outfit methinks but rather my 70's peasant dress.

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  8. I cut out the fabric for a pair of grey cords yesterday! I'm not getting dressed 'till they're finished (or it's noon, whatever comes first!

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  9. They look wonderful Peter! Good luck with your rainy day sewing. No corduroy for me but I do have a pair of silk pj pants on the sewing table to finish.

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  10. These look so crisp and cosy at the same time. I just made corduroy pants too! I think I need some of that waistband stuff.

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  11. Congratulations! They look good on you. I spent the weekend working on some rust colored corduroy pants. They're not for me, I'm still working on getting the fit on my muslin right before I make myself a pair.

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  12. Thanks, guys! BTW, I never ironed these even once. The only thing that got ironed were the pocket linings (black cotton). The corduroy just naturally drapes when it's hung up.

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  13. The pants look great, and I can comiserate with you on topstitching corduroy. Had the same problem with a jeans-style cord jacket I made last fall. Love the pix of Michael still in his iPhone 4 coma ...I can relate to that, too! :-)

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  14. C'est fantastique! You did a beautiful job on the trousers, I can't wait to see the jacket!

    I purchased some purple plaid corduroy on the w/e at 50% off, I'll be attempting my first jacket, McCall's 5860 (http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid=28172).

    19 days and counting...

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  15. They look awesome, Peter!! Job well done!

    I'm working on corduroy skirts and trousers.

    Sarah :)

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  16. I'm not sewing with corduroy, but I am wearing my bright red wide-wale corduroy skirt (made two years ago) right now.

    About the waistband, I alway attach the right side first, then I fold it over and stitch in the ditch of the seam I just made to stitch down the inside. Just press well before stitching. This also works for shirt cuffs and jeans waistbands and gives you the option of not having topstitching.

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  17. I think these look great Peter! I could easily see them paired with a thick grey sweater for winter. I bet you'll find these a really versatile piece in your wardrobe. Well done. :)

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  18. They're actually really nice-looking. I have to admit, I had my doubts through this project - but they look great!

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  19. nice! looking forward to seeing the whole outfit!

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  20. These look terrific on you. Especially from the back. Great work!

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  21. Great trousers Peter. And indeed, they look great on your butt (can I say that?). I always think that's one of the most important things in men's trousers, that the back looks good and is the right shape and tightness. My compliments!

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  22. Those are good looking cords. I do waistbands the same way Lauriana describes, it works pretty damned well.

    I have plans for some dark brown wide-leg cords for winter but am fighting a losing battle with muslins and my rear end at present. Soon, very soon.

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  23. Awesome job, Peter, the pants look fabulous on you!! Didn't notice any flaws that you so pickily pointed out :) !! The most important part of pants to me is comfort (well, okay, they have to flatter, as well.) Also, sorry about that zipper pull flying off yesterday. Just read about that and feel your pain. I would have cried!!!

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  24. Great job with the pants, they look good! And bravo for sewing with corduroy, it's not the easiest fabric to work with.

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  25. No one should be looking at your crotch long enough to see the curve. The pants look great and I love the colour even more now the pants are made.

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  26. Peter, I'm so confused about the waistband interfacing. What are the steps involved in sewing that kind of waistband interfacing on? I'm working on a pair of pants now and want to use it, but I'm lost...help! lol

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  27. Brad, a sewing book should explain it. You're attaching the waistband to the pants, right sides together. The interfacing attaches to the other (top) edge of the waistband. This is all then folded over, and the bottom of the interfacing is then sewn onto the inside of the pants, either by hand, or by "stitching in the ditch." I'd refer to a sewing book as I'm no pro -- to put it mildly!

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  28. The ditch is visible from the outside of the pants -- the seam where pants and waistband attach, and by stitching in it, you're catching the interfacing (which extends below the waistband edge).

    Is that correct, people?

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  29. You are way too cool. Those pants look amazing. I would just like to be able to alter a pattern to fit me well. I haven't tried to make a pair of pants in years.
    BTW: I always love looking at your Cathy pics. The photo shoots are always so professional looking.

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  30. Zap, and there's a super pair of pants! Wow! You're fast. Big gold stars to the man who's not afraid to tackle a fly front and man's waistband. Plus they look so very good on you.
    Agree these would look good with a chunky sweater.

    As for self criticism of your sewing, well, I cure mine by checking the workmanship on RTW. Plus, whatever you don't like now, you can change on the next pair. There has to be another pair. These are the perfect pants for you.

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  31. Hey Peter. Good looking cords man!
    I am just catching up again after another selling trip, and see that I have featured on your SO/BI post. Ohhh I feel so special! Thanks, it gave me a much needed pick me up when I am having a particularly Blah BI day!

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